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Why Is My Size Always Sold Out? One Retailer Counts What Nobody Took, Rack by Rack

No shop tells you how many are left in your size. One big retailer does print a number next to every size in its filter, so on September 20 we read that number on five full-price racks and on the markdown rack, and lined the six curves up.

A stack of folded brown T-shirts on a shop table, size labels facing out and reading S, S, S, S, S, M, M, M, M from top to bottom, a stack of black ones beside it
Photo: Dang Hong via Pexels. View original

Marks & Spencer’s women’s sale rack listed 4,225 items on the afternoon of September 20. There’s no honest way to count how many garments sit in the stockroom in a 12, because no retailer on the open web publishes unit counts, and anyone who claims to have them for a public shelf is guessing.

One number is published, though. M&S prints a count in brackets beside every value in its size filter, and that count is the number of styles currently available in that size. Not units. Styles. It’s a thin measurement and it’s the only one anybody hands out for free, so the rule here was simple: read that bracket, on every rack where it renders, on one afternoon, and change nothing else.

Five full-price racks came back, plus the shoe rack, plus the whole women’s sale rack. The jumpers rack was read twice, a day apart, to see how much a single afternoon drifts.

A long rail of colourful blouses and dresses on black hangers in a brightly lit department store, mannequins and further rails behind
A full-price rail, size run intact. Photo: Sabhyata Sahu via Pexels

The usual explanation for a missing size is competition. Everyone wants the popular size, the popular size goes first, bad luck. A second explanation, popular among people who’ve been burned, is that the shop is faking it, and the shelf isn’t a record but a pressure device. Both are testable against a bracket.

Is a size really selling out, or was it never stocked that deep?

Across all five full-price racks read on September 20, the count peaks in the middle of the run and falls off at both ends, and the fall at the small end is steep. Tops listed 1,418 styles in a UK 12 and 1,078 in a 6. Dresses peaked at 1,163 in both a 10 and a 14, against 794 in a 6. Coats and jackets ran 577 in a 14 and 313 in a 6. Jumpers were the most lopsided rack of the six: 240 in a 12, 87 in a 6.

Rack, September 20Items68101214161820222426
Tops3,557107813891407141814001380123092261247998
Dresses2,224794108811631132116311561072729399333116
Trousers1,40558666665068369268461044329624626
Coats and jackets1,08531354356556857756848638718814741
Jumpers6728715121624023423320618010410524
Women’s sale, everything4,225118712759669039181011993563401378178

Read the bottom row against the five above it. On every full-price rack the 6 sits below the 12, by a ratio between 0.36 and 0.86. On the markdown rack the ratio is 1.31, and the whole curve peaks two sizes lower, at an 8.

The letters do the same thing without any arithmetic. On the tops rack, S outnumbers M by 1,009 to 907, a ratio of 1.11. On the sale rack, S outnumbers M by 452 to 320, a ratio of 1.41.

An interlude on what a bracket is worth

Three limits, before any of this is used to decide anything.

The count is styles, not stock. A rack can print 1,418 in a 12 and hold one unit of each. Nothing here says how deep the pile is, and nothing a shopper can reach says it either. Don’t read these numbers as inventory.

The sale rack spans all of womenswear, including footwear, so the numbers in a 6 and an 8 include shoes. That correction can be bounded rather than waved at. M&S’s neighbouring shoe sizes on the same sale rack print 132 in a 5 and 141 in a 7, and its full-price shoe rack shows a 6 and an 8 to be ordinary sizes there, 1,757 and 1,629 against 1,814 in a 5. Subtract twice the largest neighbour, 282, from both, and the sale rack still holds 905 in a 6 and 993 in an 8, against 903 in a 12. The flip survives a correction more brutal than it deserves.

And this is one retailer on one day. M&S got read because it publishes the bracket. J.Crew, John Lewis and Gap’s US site were all opened first and none of them render a per-size count, which is its own small finding about who’s willing to be counted.

A hand lifting one denim jacket forward on a rail of near-identical denim jackets, brand hang tags visible on the fronts
Pulling a size out of a rail of the same jacket. Photo: Wolf Art via Pexels

Why does the markdown rack peak lower than the shelf?

Buyers don’t order equal numbers of every size, and the industry doesn’t pretend otherwise. Rasha Mahmoud, writing for the retail training site Retail Dogma, defines a size curve as “the distribution of quantities across different sizes in the size run a retailer is carrying inventory for,” and notes that a shop starting without sales history reaches for a bell: “the middle sizes are sold and carried in higher quantities, and extreme (small or large) sizes are sold and carried in smaller quantities.” The worked ratios are 1:2:2:1 across four sizes, or 1:2:3:2:1 across five.

So the middle of the run starts deeper and still empties first. Matt Putra of the ecommerce finance firm Eightx put the sequence plainly in a June 8, 2026 post: “The core sizes, usually M and L, sell fastest. They hit 95 percent plus sell-through within weeks and effectively stock out.” He calls the curve “one of the largest controllable margin levers you have,” which is an accountant’s way of saying the ends of the run are where the money goes to die.

That’s the shape in the table. A 12 is bought deepest, sells through hardest and is gone, while a 6 is bought shallowest, sells slower, and arrives at the markdown rack in numbers the 12 never reaches.

Which disposes of the two folk explanations. The shelf isn’t running a scarcity act on the middle sizes, because a fake shortage wouldn’t leave a real surplus two sizes down. And the small sizes aren’t disappearing at all, whatever the empty rail suggests on a Saturday. They’re waiting for the discount.

Four bare white hangers left on a green metal clothing rail against a plain off-white wall
What a sold-through size leaves behind. Photo: Ron Lach via Pexels

What should I do with my own size?

If you’re in the middle of a size run, buy early and skip the wait, because the discount you’re holding out for is the one part of the cycle your size is least likely to reach. At either end you’ve got the opposite instruction and the better deal: the thing you want will very likely still be there in six weeks, at less money, and the risk you’re carrying isn’t price but the odds that your size was in the buy at all.

Two cautions before anyone takes that to a till.

These are UK sizes, and the shape matters more than the number, so read for where you sit in a run rather than for a 12. A low count isn’t a verdict on anything except a purchase order, which is a document about last season’s till receipts and nothing else. Sizes are inconsistent enough between brands that the label you reach for is a poor guide on its own, and one shop’s bell won’t tell you how a garment fits.

One last check on whether the shelf can be trusted at all. The jumpers rack was read on two consecutive days: 665 items and 89 in a 6 on the 19th, 672 items and 87 in a 6 on the 20th. The counter moves, slightly, in public, which is more than the words “sold out” have ever done. When a shop says an item’s gone, it’s worth remembering how rarely that claim gets checked against the deadline, and how seldom anyone will say whether it’s coming back.

An outdoor market rail of denim shorts and skirts on pale wooden hangers, shoppers walking past out of focus behind it
The end of the run, outdoors, at the end of a season. Photo: Nascimento Jr. via Pexels

Back to the 4,225, which reads at first like the size of a sale, and is exactly how a banner wants it read. Held against the five racks above it, the same number reads as a receipt: 4,225 decisions a buyer made months ago about who would be shopping, filed where the ones that missed end up.